Wednesday, August 22, 2012

An afternoon at the seaside



Yesterday I found a map showing CRM building locations, including 2 that were off my radar: The Former Lady Artists' Club and The Daily Record Building. (Martyrs Public School was on my radar but because it isn't open to the public and looks tricky to view from the outside I decided to focus on those that were visitable so that I would make the most of my time here) so I added these 2 to my route over to The Lighthouse.

The Former Lady Artist's Club is a traditional building to which CRM added a door and surround in his distinctive style - plain black with a set of small square windows.

The Daily Record Office is down a side street and so it is difficult to get a good vew of it. It's covered mainly with white tiles, with blue/turquoise tiles giving detail. It certainly is CRM, but the tiles make it so different to the other buildings of his that I've seen so far.

The Lighthouse isn't CRM but instead was designed by the architectural practice who were working on it when he became apprenticed to them. It was modernised into Scotland's Centre for Design and Architecture and includes 2 viewing areas: one in a modern annexe and another on the top floor of the platforms. The weather was clear enough to give good views over Glasgow and beyond.... a tantalising view of the hills. 

I then took the train from Glasgow Central to Helensburgh. Having see the uphill-ness of the road to The Hill House I decided to treat myself to a bus ride, and I was really glad that I did because while I was waiting in the bus shelter the heavens opened and the rain ran of the roof of the shelter so hard that it was like standing behind a waterfall. The bus arrived, and the rain stopped, and the bus driver dropped me at the end of the road rather than at the bus stop - I like it here!

The Hill House is an example of CRM and MMM in a family home, being sensitive to the practicalities of Edwardian living, including some rooms which blended the old with the new. In the rooms where CRM was able to have control over the whole appearance the result is stunning, especially in the drawing room where I think I could have spent hours quite easily. The effects of the sunshine and shadows added to the decorations so well. The room also has a beautiful gesso panel by MMM. 
 It is possible to stay in a flat in the attic, thanks to the Landmark Trust who also have this CRM property in Comrie, Perthshire. What an amazing holiday it would be to have a few days in each!

As I walked down a side road back to the town I passed a friendly Rhodesian Ridgeback being taken for a walk by someone on a bike, and then a bit further down the hill a friendly cat quite happy to be given some fuss. As a I passed Helensburgh Upper train station I looked at their Caledonian Sleeper poster & saw that there is a train from London. Euston that calls in here on its way to Fort William & Malaig - I'd like to find a timetable because the website is fine up to a point, but this would be a great way to come to these parts again.
Just as the heavens opened again for another deluge I was invited by an elderly couple to join them under their golf umbrella - so kind of them because I'd have got soooo wet otherwise. The sun came out for my walk along the sea shore promenade - I really felt like I am on holiday!

Just as I got to a cafe for tea it began raining again - there seems to be a pattern today that if I am under shelter then it rains!

I caught the train back to Glasgow - it follows the shore of the Clyde estuary and is quite scenic. I got off at Charing Cross where Alison had arranged to meet me. We walked over to The Shandon Belles where her husband Doug met us for a lovely meal. It's set in the cellar of a pub that has been converted into a restaurant - the cellar is nice and relaxed with quirky features, including having unmatched china at each setting.

 After the meal Doug drove us over to the side of the Clyde where there is an old rotunda apparently horses & carriages (and later lorries and cars) would drive into a rotunda on one side, go under the river and out of the rotunda on the other side! Now they have been smartened up as restaurants. 
We also walked under the giant Finnieston Crane, a reminder of the more recent history of the city, quiet now except for the roosting birds and the sound of construction (even into the evening) of the new Hydro arena which joins the "armadillo" (the Clyde auditorium). It is interesting to see how Glasgow is adapting, and I am so glad that Alison and Doug took me there to round off this part of my holiday - tomorrow I get the train to Edinburgh.

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